Welcome to Jeju Island - the Hawaii of the East
I spent a long weekend getting a sense for this island and had just enough time in Jeju to fall in love with the “Hawaii of the East” and all it has to offer. From volcanic peaks, to sweeping ocean views, and even the famous Haenyeo sea women, this island really was magical.
My first evening in town, I headed to my hostel along the island’s north shore and got to explore the Rainbow Coastal Road a bit before grabbing a delicious dinner of abalone risotto, my first taste of one of the island’s most famous products. After a warm and satisfying dinner (plus a beer or two…), I felt ready to get a good night’s sleep in advance of tomorrow’s jam-packed day.
Bright and early the next morning, I caught an uber into town to join a group tour of the east coast of the island. Because I was traveling solo and didn’t want to deal with the cost or hassle of renting a car and self-driving, a group tour was perfect to see a ton of sites in one day and get a bit of history alongside the stops.
Our first stop of the morning was a lovely botanical gardens site where we were able to wander around different themed gardens and even explore some of the lava tubes onsite. Afterwards, we headed to Seongeup Folk Village, which is a historical town featuring traditionally built volcanic stone houses with thatched roofs. We had an incredible lunch here, served family-style, and I got my first taste of Jeju Black Pork. This is another famous dish unique to the island, and for good reason - my mouth is watering now just thinking about it! Great umami flavors, and served with many delicious sides and pickled veggies.
Following the Folk Village, we explored nearby beaches and eventually went to the coast to watch the haenyeo go diving. This is part of an incredible cultural tradition among the women of Jeju, who for generations have been providing for their families by free diving for valuable seafood in the cold coastal waters off of Jeju Island. Their primary target is abalone, and many of the women still diving today are in their 60s and 70s. The Island of Sea Women by Lisa See is a fabulous novel if you’re interested in learning more about this part of the world!
While the haenyeo show was definitely a highlight for me, I also really enjoyed climbing Seongsan Ilchulbong, a nearby volcanic peak. Even with the pouring rain (and maybe especially because of this), I had a great time climbing up and down the mountain paths and stairs to get a view from the top. It felt so wild and refreshing! Even more refreshing, I grabbed a freshly squeezed bottle of Jeju tangerine juice after getting back down the mountain. Another famous Jeju product, and just as delicious as the others!
After a full day of touring on the bus, I opted to be dropped back off in town near the evening street food market, which was a great choice. I started with some tangerine soft serve ice cream and ended up getting some sort of cabbage roll pancakes topped with savory sauces for dinner. The perfect way to fill up before heading back to the hostel!
While I could have crammed another full-day tour into my time in Jeju, I opted to spend my last day leisurely exploring the north coast by foot. I spent some time cafe hopping (Korea has the best cafe culture, hands-down, of anywhere I’ve traveled!), walked the coastal road, hiked up a nearby hill for views of airport take-offs and landings, and even wandered my way along the beaches and past famous lighthouses. It was the perfect way to experience a couple of these cute coastal towns. Here’s to a beautiful trip to Jeju!
