Out and About in Osaka

Of all the places I visited in Japan, Osaka was the biggest surprise. I’d read up on the fabulous street food culture and neon night-life vibes of the city and, although I was still very much looking forward to experiencing it, I couldn’t imagine enjoying it nearly as much as the quiet history of Kyoto. I was wrong - Osaka really grew on me and I already can’t wait to return. 

I stayed near the center of the city, several blocks south of the Dontonbori and Shinsekai neighborhoods. For me, it was perfect to be walking distance from the main streets and busy markets, but still a bit removed from the late-night crowds. 

I loved exploring the foodie streets of Dotonbori, where I feasted on peach mochi, takoyaki, and the best okonomiyaki of my life! I also got to visit the massive Don Quijote store and enjoyed taking a ride on the ferris wheel overlooking the river and neon skyline - even though I got a bit more than I bargained for when the ride got stuck for 15 minutes… 

My visit to Osaka Castle was also a pleasant surprise - I was definitely feeling “templed-out” at this point in my trip and not sure I wanted to spend another day inside a historical site, but I am so glad I paid the entrance fee for Osaka Castle. The museum inside covers several floors, featuring much of the history of the castle, including from the early unification of Japan, through the days of the Shogun and the Siege of Osaka. My favorite aspect of the museum was the floor full of screen paintings of the Siege of Osaka. These works were incredibly intricate, with viewers able to make out individual warriors from history by the detail in their faces, among a sea of other warriors. The screens stretched all around the outside wall of that floor of the castle, and seeing them certainly piqued my interest in this chapter of history.

Aside from a few of the day-trips I wrote about in another post (Minoh and Nara), I used my last few days here to go after some quintessential experiences in Japan, including going out for conveyor belt sushi (YUM) and visiting an urban onsen. The latter was particularly fun as the onsen featured outdoor spaces on the roof of a skyscraper in the downtown area, and boasted not only many different hot and cold pools, but also many different rooms in the stone sauna section (including pink himalayan salt rooms). 

Overall, Osaka was the perfect end to my time in Japan and definitely left me hungry to explore more on my next visit! 

A First-Timer’s Guide to Kyoto

For as long as I can remember, I’ve been intrigued by Kyoto, imagining geishas wandering historic streets from a different time. Of all the places I visited in Japan, this is perhaps the one I was most excited to see. Having had several days to get a taste for the city, I’d say it lives up to the hype! 

The fun started even before I’d arrived, as I got to take my first ride on the bullet train from Hakone to Kyoto. I knew it’d be fast, but I don’t think one can truly understand the bullet train until one flies by while they’re waiting on the platform. Just wow. Such a fun part of experiencing domestic travel in Japan! 

I decided to stay at a hostel in the Gion district, and I’m so glad I did. After evening each day, the crowds really cleared out and I was able to wander the streets and get a better feel for the district. On a few occasions, I even saw maiko walking the paths, sporting their colorful kimonos and beautiful hairstyles. 

Because I only had a few days in Kyoto, I broke up the sites I wanted to see by district and picked one district per day to explore. Read on for more on these perfect days in Kyoto!

East (Gion)

After dropping my bags at my hostel, I set right out to start exploring the Gion district, featuring traditional buildings and ancient cobblestone streets. I loved walking through the narrow streets of the Higashiyama area, including the Sannezaka Slope which has beautiful views of the 5-tiered pagoda. I wandered all the way up the hill towards Kiyomizu-dera Temple which boasts some of the most famous views of Kyoto. I was there right before the turn of the season, and I can only imagine how gorgeous this city would be in autumn - I’ll definitely plan my next visit to Kyoto for October or November. 

Aside from wandering the beautiful streets of the district, I also wanted to make sure I could attend a traditional tea ceremony and learn more about the significance and history of matcha. I signed up for a session through Tea Ceremony Nagomi and thought they did a great job. Our group was small - only myself and two other visitors - so we were able to ask questions and try our hand at preparing the matcha for ourselves. An experience I’ll look back on so fondly!

Inari and Central Kyoto

For my first full day in Kyoto, I started early to get down to Fushimi Inari, with its famous thousand tori gates. I arrived around 8:30 am and, while I won’t say I entirely managed to beat the crowds, it was still a great experience. If you’re feeling adventurous, you’re able to walk the entire loop and summit Mount Inari. Although this may have been the sweatiest experience of my entire life, I’d highly recommend it to anyone visiting - there are a lot of stairs involved, but because of this, the crowds significantly drop off the higher you climb, making it much more likely that you can have entire stretches to yourself (and score some epic photos). 

After this morning’s adventure, I’d worked up quite the appetite so I decided to head into central Kyoto and check out Nishiki Market. Cue some of the best bites I’ve had - including this mouth-watering wagyu beef skewer, some fresh hot donuts, and delicious mochi. 

Also near central Kyoto is Nijo Castle. While I was feeling a bit “templed-out” by this point, I was glad I snagged a ticket because it was well worth visiting the site. The best part, in my opinion, was actually being able to walk inside the buildings. Many of the rooms have been restored to what they would have looked like during the time of the Shoguns. It was so interesting to imagine what it would have been like to have been received as a guest there during the days of feudal Japan. 

Wandering the grounds of Nijo Castle.

Just when I thought it couldn’t get better, I discovered my absolute favorite experience in Kyoto - a beautiful omakase sushi dinner at a small hole-in-the-wall shop. I don’t know if I could find it again if I tried… when I first went by, it wasn’t open, so I hopped across the street to a little wine bar where I was the only customer. I had one of the best glasses of wine of my life, plus the cutest complementary truffle amuse bouche. By the time I’d finished the glass and popped back out to the street, the sushi bar was open. I grabbed one of the 8 seats at the chef’s bar and proceeded to enjoy 4 fabulous courses of sashimi, 10 amazing nigiri, plus a fabulous sake pairing. It was definitely a meal to remember! 

West (Arashiyama)

Exploring the main attractions west of the city was definitely the busiest day of my Kyoto trip. I started early with a 9am ticket on the Sagano Romantic Train headed west from Arashiyama. It was a beautiful train ride along the gorge, with plenty of views out over the river. I imagine it’d be even more stunning once the leaves start to change! Perhaps most exciting were the views of the Hozugawa Riverboats cruising down the river below. The train ride pairs perfectly with these, as you can easily hop onto a boat tour back down the river to Arashiyama. I loved getting to cruise down the river and you even go over some exciting rapids! 

Back in Arashiyama, the main attraction is the bamboo forest. Even though it’s a bit crowded, it wasn’t quite as busy as I was imagining, so I still found it fun to stroll around and take photos. On my walk towards the forest, I also toured the Tenryuji Temple grounds and gardens for a beautiful example of Japanese landscape design - I would absolutely recommend it. After such a full day, I grabbed some street food and headed back to catch a train to Kyoto center!

Northeast and Northwest Kyoto

I had fewer organized plans for my time in Northern Kyoto but knew I wanted to walk along the Philosopher’s Path, which follows a stream along a quieter edge of town. I can see why the walk would be highly sought after as a place for deep thought and reflection - I found it so peaceful. As an interesting bonus, several older Japanese people stopped me to ask if they could say a prayer for me - each time, we’d bow our heads and close our eyes as they said a silent prayer. Definitely an interesting experience… 

After exploring more around the neighborhood at the northern terminus of the path, I hopped on a local bus to check out Kinkaku-ji Temple on the other side of town. This temple is famous for its gold-leaf facade and it certainly draws a crowd. I think it is worth visiting once to see, but wouldn’t put it at the top of my list for sites in Kyoto. On the other hand, I visited the jiggly pancake restaurant twice… so all in, a successful first time in this beautiful city!

Must-Do Daytrips for Central Japan

This was my very first trip to Japan, and, while I knew I was going to want to spend time in Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka doing all the touristy things, I also wanted to try and get out and about to some other cities in the region. I’ve collected my experiences below, ranging from cute seaside towns to mystical forest walks and onsen heaven… Read on for experiences from Kamakura, Enoshima, Nikko, Hakone, Minoh, and Nara!

Kamakura & Enoshima: A Seaside Escape 

After having a few days to get the lay of the land in Tokyo (and conquer the worst of the jetlag), I opted for a daytrip to the coast to get a bit of a different feel. Kamakura and Enoshima are closely located to one another along the coast, and only a 1.5-hour train journey from Tokyo. I purchased the Enoshima-Kamakura Free Pass ($12) which included roundtrip train tickets from Shinjuku on the Odayku line as well as local train travel between the two towns. 

Once I arrived in Enoshima, I opted to continue down the coast to Kamakura on the Enoden line and work my way back to Enoshima from there. I visited in early September and the weather was absolutely scorching, so I highly recommend bringing sunscreen and a sun protection layer as you’ll want to spend plenty of time wandering the various temples and sites. I managed to visit the following - all in one day! 

Kamakura - Komachi Street is a popular walking street from Kamakura Station to Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine. There are so many good options for street food and souvenir shopping along this road - my favorite finds were the curry puffs and Ruru cafe. I also picked out some Furoshiki wrapping cloths to have on hand for wrapping holiday gifts. So cute! For the shrine itself, I mostly just strolled around the outside and enjoyed the ponds and bridges. 

Hase - The Hase Station stop is in between Kamakura and Enoshima on the Enoden Line, so it makes perfect sense to stop there on the way back to town. I visited two main sites in Hase, with the first being Kotoku-in Temple, known for its giant bronze Buddha statue. You can also see a pair of the Buddha’s giant sandals on-site, but for me the coolest part was being able to pay a small fee to actually venture inside the hollow Buddha statue. You can even see where seams were put together - though it is scorching inside, so don’t stay too long! After exploring Kotoku-in, I headed over to Hasadera Temple, which has a sprawling gardens complex to explore. I worked my way along the path and up the side of the hill to find various viewpoints and peaceful nature walks, as well as many Buddha statues. Hase overall might be my favorite stop from today! 

Enoshima - After hopping off of the Enoden line, you can walk across a long bridge to get to the island of Enoshima. As you near the island, you can see various temples and the Enoshima Sea Candle pop into view. I started my exploration of the island by walking counter-clockwise around the island to the Chigogafuchi Abyss and Enoshima Iwaya Cave. This coastal path has stunning scenery, with the waves crashing onto the rocky shore and, over time, carving out pools, inlets, and yes - sea caves! The Iwaya Cave tour was a fun and affordable experience - there is a lot of local history to read about on the way in, including local tales and legends. Walking the path through the cave system was really refreshing after spending all day in the sun, and it was impressive as well. 

After the sea caves, I walked back up the steep path to head the other direction and continue up to the Enoshima Sea Candle. The Sea Candle is located within a garden complex, which was lovely to explore, but I did pay a bit extra to go up to the top for panoramic views of the coastal region. This was so worth it! I was able to see Mt. Fuji breaking through the haze for the first (and only) time of my trip… absolutely magical. As I headed back towards the train to end my long day of exploring, I made one last special stop into the tiniest wood-fired pizza shop on my way back down the hill. Well worth it - I had a fabulous spicy octopus and green onion pizza that I am still dreaming about. 

All in all, this coastal region makes for a great day trip but there’s plenty to see, so make sure you’re well-fueled and well-stocked with water and sungear (and save room for pizza). 

Into the Woods: Nikko

Another fantastic daytrip direct from Tokyo, Nikko transports you to a world of ancient mossy forests, hidden temples, and peaceful riverside paths. I opted to purchase the Nikko World Heritage Pass ($23), which included roundtrip train tickets, but it did mean I needed to get myself to Asakusa Station early to catch the morning departure! All in, from Shinjuku it was approximately 2.5-3 hours each way to travel to Nikko for the day, but well worth it in my opinion. 

Having arrived in town early, I strolled down the main street to stretch my legs and started with a stop at Shinkyo Bridge. This is an incredibly picturesque spot and is a great start to the day, with the river rushing below and dense forest unfolding in the background. After taking some photos and reading a bit about the history, I stopped for a coffee at Hongu Cafe. Tucked right inside the forest and with a traditional design, this place was great for a peaceful pick-me-up while planning out the rest of my walk. 

For the rest of the morning, I visited several famous shrines and temples in quick succession, starting with Rinnoji Temple. I sprang for the ticket to go inside this World Heritage Site and see one of the largest wooden Buddha structures in the region. There was also a good deal of information provided on various posters and, since it was a paid experience, was a bit more removed from the main crowds that had started to arrive in the area. 

From Rinnoji, I walked further through the forest to Nikko Toshogu Shrine, which boasts incredibly detailed carvings across a large scale site. There were so many intricate details to take in, and the juxtaposition of the human artistry to the wild forest surrounding us was really interesting. When I was at the site, many large groups of schoolchildren were arriving for field trips, so I opted to hurry on to Futarasan Jinja via the Kamishinmichi Path through the forest. The trees here are incredibly tall and feel so ancient, adding an ethos to the spiritual sites throughout the area. Futarasan Jinja was also a beautiful spot - a bit quieter and smaller than the previous two - so it felt like a nice way to wind down the morning’s walking tour before looking for lunch. 

I walked back into the main town and down along the river to a very small udon shop called Santenamataro. Here I was able to try the local specialty of Nikko, yuba (tofu skin), which had been rolled into a dumpling-like form and added to my udon. It was the perfect cozy meal to have while watching the river rush by towards Shinkyo Bridge. The whole time I was here, only one other couple came by to eat, so it felt like a real hidden gem. 

After my delicious lunch break, I continued walking along the river, crossed over a bridge, and carried on to Kanmangafuchi Abyss, which was the site I was most excited to see in Nikko. This site boasts a path that runs along the river as it rushes over rapids and large boulders. Deep in the forest, it is incredibly peaceful and removed from the tourist hub-bub on the other side of the river. What makes it extra special are the Ghost Jizo statues that line the path, of which there are dozens in various states of disrepair. They definitely lend an ethereal quality to the walk. 

At this point in the afternoon, I was exhausted from many miles of walking so I grabbed the local buses back to the train station, enjoyed a cup of tea and slice of cake, and headed back towards Tokyo! A day well spent.

Highlights of Hakone 

Although I often refer to it as a daytrip, you really need to spend at least one night (and ideally 2 or 3!) in Hakone to have the full experience. This mountain town is known for its natural hot springs, meaning that local onsens abound! I was able to stay at K’s Hostel Hakone which actually had two private onsens onsite, one indoor and one outdoor, which regularly rotated by gender. Though the hostel was mostly catering to foreign travelers, it was still a taste of the authentic Japanese onsen experience (meaning no clothes or swimsuits allowed!). 

While the onsens are a big draw, there’s much more to see throughout Hakone. I purchased the Hakone Free Pass ($45) which included all baseline public transport costs to get to Hakone from Tokyo and also exploration on the Hakone tourist loop. I felt this was a really great deal, especially considering that the Hakone tourist loop includes a sightseeing train, mountain cable car, multi-stage ropeway, pirate ship lake crossing, and local buses. But more on that below… 

For my full day in Hakone, I got an early start and headed out on the scenic train to check out the Hakone Open Air Museum. This was one of the coolest museum experiences I’ve had in a while, with most of the exhibits spread out across the museum’s grounds, which are nestled between the sprawling hills of the region. Many of the exhibits are interactive, and I found myself navigating mazes, going through narrow underground tunnels, and of course climbing the beautiful stained-glass tower. The Picasso exhibit hall here is extremely impressive, exhibiting many of his works across different periods of his art, and also across media. After a long morning of strolling around the grounds, you can even soak your feet in their onsite, outdoor, foot bath. Not only is it fed with the museum’s own geothermal water source, but the views are stunning. 

Following the Open Air Museum, I strolled into Gora proper to grab lunch at a cafe before heading onto the second of today’s many forms of transportation - the cable car. This tram navigated steep tracks up the side of the mountain until we reached the peak, after which, we transferred to the aerial cable car for multiple stations. The views from the cable car were unparalleled, especially as we crested the top of the hill prior to Owakudani Station. At this point, the sulfur vents were spread out on the mountainside below, covered in yellow crystals and releasing heaps of steam and fumes. It was a full multi-sensory experience! 

Views over the sulfur fields during the cable car ride.

I stopped off at Owakudani to get a closer view of the sulfur fields from their observation points, and of course had to partake in a local treat… While I wanted to try the famous black egg, they are only sold in batches of four and I couldn’t quite commit to that, so I settled for some charcoal chocolate ice cream (yum). I thought this was a really fun stop on the loop! 

After my excursion at the peak, I hopped back in a cable car to head down the other side of the mountain, which brought us to Lake Ashi and specifically Togendai Port. Little did I know, I was just in time to catch the last pirate ship sailing of the day (thankfully I didn’t end up stranded) and enjoyed the fun cruise across the lake. Rather than take the pirate ship all the way to Motohakone, I opted to get off a stop early so I could walk back along the Old Tokaido Cedar Avenue. This was a great choice - I had the path all to myself and was surrounded by towering cedars, dampening sounds from any traffic and human activities nearby. It was a great way to end my Hakone Loop. For the final leg, I ran into 7/11 for the snacks and managed to catch the K bus all the way back to K’s Hostel, where I enjoyed another round in the onsen as reward for a day well spent. 

Magical Minoh

Minoh was one of my easiest daytrips, at only 30-40 minutes from Osaka by train. I was originally drawn to the area by Katsuoji Temple, famous for its hundreds and hundreds of daruma dolls, but there is more to see in Minoh! 

I started by strolling directly from the train station into Minoh Park, which boasts a beautifully maintained, paved walking path through the forest, passing by quaint shops closer to the start of the train and eventually fading into total forested surroundings. After about 40 minutes, you reach Minoh Falls, dropping from an impressive height and casting mist over the viewing platform. This was one of, if not the most beautiful stroll of my trip to Japan - so peaceful and super easy to navigate, with several smaller temples and shrines along the way for those looking to explore further. 

After checking out the waterfall, I climbed up a series of steep ramps to get up to the main road and parking lot area. I had intended to walk an additional 40 minutes to reach Katsuoji Temple on foot, but on seeing the narrow and windy mountain road (and the speed at which cars were passing), I splurged for an uber to drive me to the entrance. 

Katsuoji Temple itself was so much fun! The temple grounds are sprawling and the daruma dallas are everywhere - it was so fun to try and spot the most interesting placements. This temple also has one of the best souvenirs I’ve seen on the trip so far - a blank postcard, which through a series of 8 different stamp stations around the temple, becomes a lovely piece of art by which to remember your visit. So fun! 

Having had my fill of wandering around the daruma dolls, I hopped on the bus back into town to catch the train back into Osaka. This could very easily be a half-day trip for those short on time but still wanting to check out some lesser known spots! 

Nara 

Nara - the classic daytrip for those exploring the major tourist belt in Central Japan. Made famous in part for its bowing deer, the city also has significant history and beautiful architectural sites that are well worth the visit. 

I visited Nara from Osaka in mid-September and found it to be an easy one-hour train ride from the city. My first stop was a delicious brekkie set at Rokumei Coffee, just a block from the train station. Once I was fully caffeinated, I took a stroll through town along the main tourist shopping streets, trying some freshly-pounded mochi and making my way towards Kofuku-ji Temple. Some of the sites here were closed or covered for renovation works during my visit but it was still impressive to see the multi-tiered pagodas and the unique octagonal halls here. 

At Kofuku-ji, I also got my first glimpse of the bowing deer as there were several wandering around the site. I headed over to Nara Park to purchase some deer biscuits from a local vendor and headed deeper into the park towards some other interesting shrines. A word to the wise - do not let the deer know that you have the biscuits… they can get pretty aggressive, especially the larger males. I approached deer that were hanging out on their own with a single biscuit, waited for them to bow, and then let them gently take the biscuit from my hand. I saw some tourists at risk of being kicked by some of the deer - so don’t be a touron. :) 

I walked through the park to Kasugataisha Shrine, which has dozens and dozens of beautiful lanterns lining its walkways. I paid the entrance fee to explore the site and really enjoyed the darkroom where you could see the beautifully designed lanterns all lit up and glowing. There were also several ancient trees growing up and through portions of the temple, and it was so special to see nature blending with history in this way. Such a beautiful shrine!  

I had one other major site I wanted to visit today, and made a pit stop for some delicious riverside udon on my way at Mizuya Chaya, which really hit the spot. Back towards the main town, I visited Todai-ji Temple, entering through the massive south gate. This temple is particularly impressive as it is one of the largest wooden structures on the planet. The original, which was nearly 50% larger, had burnt down leading to the rebuild of this more modest (but still incredibly impressive) structure. The interior of the temple was also beautiful, with the Great Buddha statue at nearly 15 m in height. 

On my way out of town, I went for a stroll through Yoshikien Garden. Access is free for tourists, and the garden is a classic example of Japanese landscape design - a perfect oasis in the city. Just when I thought Nara couldn’t get more interesting, I even had a robot pour a beer for me at the train station… cheers to a great Japan trip!

Welcome to Tokyo!

At long last, I’ve made it to Japan! The country has been at the top of my list for ages, and for good reason. The culture, food, history and nature have all intrigued me. Tokyo has been a thrilling (if a bit intimidating) city in which to kick things off! 

I landed Wednesday evening and made my way into the city via train, which luckily was much easier than anticipated. The hostel I booked is in Shinjuku and would be my home base for the next six evenings. After the few hours it took to go from disembarking the plane to checking in at the hostel, I was exhausted, and let myself crash after making a mandatory konbini (convenience store) run for some new snacks. 

I was up pretty early the first few days and opted to use the jet lag to my advantage. I broke my exploration of the city down into a few key zones to save time and money on public transit. 

Shibuya / Shinjuku

My first full day started off with a stroll to Meiji Jingu, a beautiful Shinto Shrine near Yoyogi Park. The walkways leading into the Main Shrine areas were lined with what looked like ancient trees, although they were apparently planted just about a century ago, designed to mimic an old growth forest. The grounds were very quiet, and it was the perfect place to leave an offering and express appreciation for the good fortune and blessings that led me here. 

On walking out the other end of the shrine grounds, I entered Yoyogi Park and opted for a stroll around. It was just started to drizzle and made for a peaceful stroll, enjoying the bird calls and quiet oasis within the city. Though rain might not be what most hope for on vacation, the heat and humidity in Tokyo have been stifling and have me wishing for drizzly days more often than not! 

Later in the morning, I headed over to Harajuku Town, home of all things kawaii! I strolled down Takeshita Street, which is the main shopping thoroughfare and glanced in at the many animal cafes (think shiba inus, capybaras, and baby piglets!) and gacha game stores. I made my way to a restaurant called Menchirashi for lunch and tried their viral carbonara udon - in my humble opinion, it definitely lived up to the hype and was a worthy first meal in Japan! Firm, bouncy noodles in a rich egg and cream sauce - fabulous. I could eat multiple bowls of this. :) 

With my appetite momentarily sated, I headed further into the heart of shibuya, strolling through some of the busier malls as the rain really started to come down. I can see now why so many people come to Japan with an empty suitcase! I’m not much of a shopper and tend to blow most of my money on food and experiences, but I think next time I come to Japan that may have to change. So many of the stores were super cute boutique styles and things were catching my eye left and right. Not to mention all of the beautiful art and ceramics…  

Once the rain let up a bit, I headed towards the famous Shibuya Crossing - I must say, a bit overhyped when you’re actually in it! It didn’t feel too busy while walking across, but I ended up heading to the Share Cafe on the 3rd floor of the building overloooking the Crossing and it was much more impressive from above. Such good people watching! 

As I strolled back to the hostel, I opted to pass through the Shinjuku Gyoen Gardens. The landscaped areas were stunning and divided into several distinct, themed sections. It was a perfectly peaceful stroll and a nice end to a first full day in Tokyo. 

Tsukiji / Ginza / Asakusa

On my second day it absolutely poured the whole day! I had to decide early to just commit to getting soaked and enjoy the day regardless. I started with the TeamLab Planets interactive art installation, which had everything from literally immersive water and light exhibits through to the forest park and hanging flower gardens. I thought this was so fun and different from anything I’ve done before - would definitely recommend! 

For a second breakfast, I fought my way through the typhoon over to Tsukiji Outer Market to enjoy some street food. I started with a strawberry daifuku (one of my best bites of the trip, honestly - had to go back for another) and then enjoyed a sampler of various fatty tuna cuts from a nigiri vendor. Delicious and filling! I popped into a little cafe as well to avoid the rain and enjoyed an ice matcha while taking a little reading break. 

When I was revived enough to brave the rain again, I headed up on a walk through Ginza and then took the metro over to Kappabashi Street, aka Kitchen Town. I enjoyed some window shopping and drooled over all of the beautiful ceramicware I would have purchased if I had more room in my luggage.

Asakusa was my final area of the day to explore. Nakamise Shopping Street and the surrounding vendor areas were still surprisingly crowded, but at least were covered from the brunt of the rain. The approach to Senso-ji Temple was beautiful, made even more so by the strength of the rain. It was running down the curved roof tiles in perfect rivulets that ended up looking like undulating bubbles as they approached the edge. Water from the roof was funneled off into massive cauldrons on the ground level and it all looked quite impressive. I think I enjoyed it more in the rain than I might have in the sunshine!

Hardy tourists braving the rain to explore Senso-ji.

Minato / Azabudai

I took it a bit easier on my third day and started off at the Imperial Palace and Gardens. I’d been hoping to join this morning’s free tour, but it was unfortunately cancelled due to some palace events. This week, a new and current final male heir to the throne in Japan’s monarchy came of age, for the first time in 40 years. So understandably, they’ve got a lot going on at the moment!

I opted for a stroll down to see the Tokyo Tower and enjoyed sitting in the waterfall park by its base for a while before going cafe hopping once again (perhaps my favorite solo travel hobby). I spent the evening wandering around Shinjuku a bit more and trying out the famous ramen solo dining spot - Ichiran! Fun and tasty. 

While I spent another couple nights in Tokyo, my days were busy with daytrips - stay tuned for dispatches from Kamakura, Enoshima, and Nikko!

48 Hours in Seattle

I was able to bookend my Olympic National Park trip with two full days in Seattle and managed to see some of the city’s greatest hits. Seattle felt like an Indie paradise - good coffee scene, accessible waterfront, and such fun boutique shopping - think maps, rocks and gems, and beautiful Indigenous art. I already can’t wait to come back and spend more time exploring the city. 

View of the Space Needle from Chihuly Garden & Glass

Friday Morning

After getting into Seattle late last night, I went for a morning food tour of Pike Place Market to (1) get associated with a bit of the city and some of its history and (2) try some of the best bites around. We had biscuits, cheese, samosas, chocolate, chai, salmon, and more! I enjoyed hearing some of the history of the market as well, and it was easy to keep track of spots which looked interesting that I wanted to come back and check out later. I spent the rest of the morning wandering the various floors of the market, popping into small shops and checking out the Gum Wall. 

Friday Afternoon

After a quick powernap to recover from my Pike Place Market Food Baby™, I headed out for a happy hour Harbor Cruise, which was included on my Seattle City Pass ticket. We spent an hour on the water, and were rewarded with views of the North Cascades and Mount Rainier, as well as some of the large-scale industrial quayside facilities, which were pretty cool especially for fellow maritime nerds. After the cruise, I met up with a friend to grab dinner and we ended up enjoying the evening at the Charter Hotel’s rooftop bar before heading out to catch sunset views from higher up over the city. Not bad for a first day in town! 

We spent the weekend exploring Olympic National Park - check out that trip here. 

Monday Morning

I had one more full day in Seattle before heading back to Boston and wanted to make sure I made the most of it! I started out with some brekkie from the Pike Place Market, including some delicious mini donuts and the richest mac’n’cheese from Beecher’s. I popped down to the waterfront to head to the aquarium as soon as it opened (also on my City Pass). While I’ve been to several aquariums around the world, I thought that Seattle’s coral and anemone exhibits were stunning! I also really enjoyed learning a bit about the unique ecology of the Salish Sea. 

Monday Afternoon

I had several more items to hit on my City Pass this afternoon, and luckily they were all in the same spot! I took the monorail up to Seattle Center to check out the Museum of Pop Culture, which was very cool - I likely wouldn’t have purchased a ticket if it hadn’t already been included in my Pass, but it was a super interesting stop, covering art, music, sci-fi, horror, and other genres. 

After taking a couple hours to explore the Museum, I headed up to the Space Needle observation deck to grab a beer and enjoy the views. As cool as this was, the star of the show today was definitely the Chihuly Garden and Glass Museum right next door. I didn’t know much about what to expect going into it, and was absolutely blown away (ha). The sheer scale of the pieces was incredible! And so interesting to go and experience this right after spending the morning at the aquarium - so many similarities between the beautiful artwork and the lively corals and anemones. After catching one of the live glass blowing demonstrations, I grabbed a quick bite at the onsite bar (yum) before catching the monorail back to grab the airport train downtown. Thanks for a great trip, Seattle!

A Weekend in Olympic NP

Seattle and the Olympic Peninsula were the perfect place to start for my first ever taste of the Pacific Northwest - roaming elk, leaping salmon, and moss-laden forests made for a magical ambiance. It’s amazing what all you can see with only a weekend - read on for our itinerary and to hear about some of my favorite places!

Saturday Morning

We hopped on the 7am ferry from Seattle this morning to get an early start and made our way over to Bainbridge Island. This was my first time on a car ferry and I was very easily entertained, running around the decks to catch the best views of the Seattle skyline, Mount Rainier, and the North Cascades in the distance. The ferry trip lasted about an hour and we soon disembarked on the island, stopping for a quick coffee and brekkie in town - highly recommend Coquette Bake Shop for a pastry and a latte to start the day! 

We drove on to Port Angeles, where we headed uphill for our first stop in the park - Hurricane Ridge. Although the Hurricane Ridge Visitor Center burned down in May 2023, the trip up to the top was still very much worthwhile - a half-hour of winding roads with incredible vistas and snow-capped peaks. As someone who spends most of her time at sea level, I was so amazed by the beauty of the mountains. And traipsing through the snow up at the trailheads by the parking lot was an extra dash of magic on the first warm spring weekend we’d had.

For our first hike of the day, we walked out to Devil’s Punchbowl, which boasted beautiful crystal blue waters. The walk itself was just over 2 miles roundtrip and took us along a flat bike path and through a tunnel before branching off onto a short trail down by the water and across a short bridge. This spot looks like it would be fantastic for a swim (when a bit warmer!). 

We next headed over to enjoy our pack lunch on the shores of Lake Crescent by the lodge. We cozied up on a log and watched the water ripple over the rocks while enjoying our sandwiches and snacks. This was the perfect place to take a rest, and the views were stunning! Once we got moving again, we headed out on a brief walk to Marymere Falls, the trailhead for which was right next door to the Lake Crescent Lodge parking lot. This was our first real taste of the mossy forest, and we got to enjoy some winding paths up and around the rocks to eventually be rewarded with views of the falls from a few different vantage points. At less than 2 miles roundtrip, this was a perfect, easy post-lunch stroll. 

Saturday Afternoon

To kick off our afternoon, we drove onward towards the Sol Duc Falls trailhead. On our way, we couldn’t help but notice some signs on the side of the road noting the salmon runs. We pulled over to take a look at what ended up being one of my favorite memories of the trip - watching the salmon leap upstream! The water was rushing so powerfully, it’s a wonder how they do it, and I was thrilled each time one leapt up the rapids. 

And I thought the day couldn’t get any better… but the Sol Duc Falls hike proved me wrong! This was another short out and back trail at 1.6 miles roundtrip, and the falls at the far end were so worth it. There were so few others out on the trail with us, it truly felt like we had it all to ourselves. The forest was so quiet and soft, with a thick coating of moss on the downed trees and rocks along the streams we passed. The falls themselves were beautiful and so unique with the three separate spouts shooting down the rock face into the canyon. 

Stunning Sol Duc Falls

Saturday Evening 

To wrap up this very full day, we drove on to Forks, where we were staying in an Airbnb for the night, and made a mad dash to catch the sunset from La Push Beach. I’m so glad we did - we got to see the sun disappear perfectly behind a small sea stack on the horizon and watched a couple of sea lions playing in the waves along the coast. As is was getting dark, we swung back through town to grab a pizza and some beers to be enjoyed alongside a roaring fire at our home for the night. Needless to say, after such a full day of adventuring, we slept great.

Sunday Morning

We got another fairly early start for the day and grabbed some coffees in town around 7am as we headed towards our first stop of the day - the Hoh Rainforest. Once more, there were so few others out and about at this time, which made for a lovely and peaceful drive. I definitely recommend staying overnight in Forks to beat the crowds here, as the out and back road can get backed up during the busy season. It was so quiet, we even got to witness a herd of elk crossing the road right in front of us, calm as could be! The Rainforest itself was mystical - quiet and still, with curtains of moss hanging from each branch and log along the path. It almost felt like a Dalí painting, with the forest melting around us… After finishing the main loop by the Visitor Center (0.75 mi), we added on another short loop that took us past the nearby riverbank, dipping our hands (and faces) into the icy fresh water. 

Sunday Afternoon

For our next stop, we popped out to the coast to visit Ruby Beach and strolled along the sand for a ways. We saw some pretty incredible sea stacks and poked our heads in some tunnels during our frolicking. Couldn’t help but dip our bare feet in as we waded through some shallows in an effort to keep our boots (now safely held in hand) dry. Definitely refreshing! We got to enjoy the rest of our pack lunches in the parking lot overlooking the beach before getting back on the road. 

We kept on to the Quinault Rainforest where we hiked along the edge of Lake Quinault to the historic Quinault Lodge. This was such a peaceful stroll and we didn’t pass a single other person until we got to the Lodge, where we enjoyed some time sitting by the water and soaking in a bit of sun. We also checked out the nearby Big Spruce Trailhead, where we got to see the world’s largest Sitka Spruce - such a special trip.

After getting sick of the trails (really though, we basically had to tear ourselves away), we hopped back in the car for the rest of our long drive back to Seattle. As soon as we got back to town, we grabbed some quick burgers and shakes from Dick’s, a Seattle staple, and started to build back all that energy we’d spent exploring this weekend. All in all, a 10/10 adventure!

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Our route over the course of two days.